Saddle Peak (Crag Review)

There is no shortage of amazing climbing in SoCal, but there’s also no shortage of climbers and traffic. Sometimes, you just want a shorter day at your local crag. At Saddle Peak, you don’t have to compromise. The climbing is amazing, the access is easy, and there are no crowds. You might be thinking, well, High-Clip, there must be some downside to this crag…I mean nothing is perfect, right? And you’d be kind of right, but in truth the only potential con of this crag is that it’s not enormous…after a day or two you could have probably tried all the routes. But not every crag needs to be a national park…sometimes it’s nice to have a selection of climbs next to each other. Plus, you get to work on your projects without getting too distracted.

In terms of grades, there is a main wall that is stacked with fun 5.7-5.10s. Along this wall are several flakes and cracks, and in fact many of the climbs are meant to be mixed (trad and sport). You could run it out if you didn’t have any trad gear, but if you fell you could get pretty messed up. These routes are pretty tall (a 60m rope would do just fine), and they are vertical/slabby in general. Generally speaking, this wall would make a great teaching spot for gear placement, leading, rappelling, etc. Indeed, bolts and anchors are placed well and (so far) kept in good condition, so nothing feels particularly sketchy unless you make it so. All of the moves and holds are there, and the routes flow exceptionally well.

Next to the main wall, there is a small(ish) tower with harder climbs (5.11-5.12s). There aren’t a ton, but they are very enjoyable (in different ways than the main wall’s climbs). There are more pockets and such, and there are overhangs, aretes, and (our favorite) dihedrals. Each route has a good amount of variety, and still everything feels well protected. The climbs on this tower are rather unique compared to climbs of the same grade elsewhere, and so they definitely make for more fun projects or repeat sends.

Saddle peak has something for everyone, and it is a pretty low-key place. The sandstone is amazing, as the texture was incredible without feeling too sharp. For those of you familiar with Denny Cove, the rock feels rather similar. On top of that, the views from both the approach and the climbs are spectacular. You get a view of the surrounding chaparral and the Pacific ocean. The access is great, the climbs are great, the pro is great, and the vibes are great. What else could you ask for?