Gear Review: Cam
Company: Metolius
Product: Ultralight Master Cam
While most cams are rated the same safety-wise, they very greatly on how they may be used/how they perform ergonomically. They have different sizes, triggers, slings, lobes, etc. If you’ve looked around the cam market, you’ll see that many companies have the similar designs and specs. Metolius, on the other hand, has an incredibly unique design that is quite effective.
Sizes
The first thing you’ll notice about these cams is how different the sizing is. As ultralight cams, they are much smaller overall than other cams, so they fit better on your gear loops and are much lighter (immediate win). In terms of usable size, they seem a bit smaller/finer, which is natural since they are so light/low profile. Further, they have markers on the lobes showing you where the usable range is so you don’t have to guess it’s too retracted or not retracted enough.
At big sizes, around the 7 (about a #2) or 8 (about a #3), it is true that these guys have narrower usable range for their size. That is, despite how big the cam is, you would only every use it in similar sized cracks as a opposed to using it in a larger variety of crack sizes. However, the opposite is true for the smaller sizes (the remaining sizes). Indeed, at small sizes, these cams have much wider usable ranges for the cam size than other cams out there. Hence, these cams are more versatile (on top of being lighter and lower profile) at smaller sizes, and they truly shine.
Ergonomics
The slings are light, low profile, and slick, so they sit very well on the harness and they don’t get caught anywhere.
While some people prefer thumb loops, I prefer the trigger on the Metolius cams (see the photo). When I’m stressed out (default state) on a climb, I want to grab the cam and plug it in quickly, without much fine motor skills. The trigger does have a nice U in the new model (not in the photo) for your thumb to find quickly, but you can also easily palm it, which you can’t do with thumb loops. It’s a win-win!
Final Thoughts
You win every time with the Metolius Ultralight Master Cams, epesically if you get sizes 00-6 (about a #.1-#1). They are lighter, lower in profile, more versatile, and personally, more ergonomic. There’s an orange cam in there (size 3) that is right in between a #.4 and #.5. I can’t tell you how many times that little guy has been the only piece that fits well. These cams are a joy to have, and they make you feel incredibly safe, especially given how unsafe the activity is. Most people like to have a double rack (at least), and generally you want one rack of one brand and another in a different brand so you have a good continuity/overlap in usable sizes. Metolius will overlap in a nice way with most cams since their sizing is so unique, so they are a no-brainer in a double rack! Lastly, they are cheaper than most cams out there, and who can say no to a good deal!
Recommendation: All trad climbers
Specs: 45-129g; 8.5-71.5 mm; 11mm sling
MSRP: $69.75-$74.95
thedihedral.com 