Since Inspire first opened its doors in 2013, one name has been quietly carving their path on the climbing gym walls, literally and professionally. Nearly a decade of experience on the setting crew and a recent Level 3 certification. Inspire’s Director of Setting Drew Short sat down with me to talk about his journey and the quirks that come with making the problems climbers love and sometimes love to hate!
Q: When did you become Head Routesetter?
I’ve been the Director of Setting since 2022.
Q: How many competitions have you set for over the years?
Honestly, I’m bad at keeping track. I’ve set dozens—from standard member comps to youth divisionals.
Q: Have you had the chance to guest set at other gyms?
Yes! While I’ve only worked officially for Inspire, I’ve guest set at G1, Inner Peaks, Method, Stone Co, Texas Rock Gym, Threshold—and probably a few others I’m forgetting.
Q: Have you done any other roles at Inspire besides routesetting?
I’ve dabbled in coaching, hold washing, and floor staff, but once I started setting, that’s all I wanted to do.
Q: Favorite gym you’ve ever set at?
Inspire Spring, for sure. There’s a lot of nostalgia tied to it, even if the concrete walls are a bit of a pain to set on.
Q: What was your first step into routesetting?
I washed holds for years and begged the setters at the time to let me try it until they finally gave in.
Q: Did you have a mentor coming up?
Yeah, I learned a lot from different head setters at events and at the gym. Justin Wright, our last Director of Setting, was a huge mentor and helped set me up for this role.
Q: If you were a climbing hold, what kind would you be?
I’d be a mini jug or an incut crimp—because I’m just a helpful little guy.
Q: Do you prefer setting sport climbs or boulders?
Boulders, definitely. But every once in a while I enjoy a good rope route.
Q: What would your dream route look like?
Slabby, aesthetic, and flowy—with volumes and fiberglass holds. Easy, but with committing movement. Something that just feels good to climb.
Q: What do you do when you’re not setting?
I love fishing and cooking—and lately I’ve been getting into disc golf.
Q: Is there a famous climber you’d love to set for?
Does Jared Leto count? I just want to be able to say I set a route for him.
Q: What’s the next step in your routesetting career?
With my Level 3 done, the next step is leading setting for a few youth regional events, then applying to set for nationals to work toward my Level 4.
Q: Best name for a route you’ve ever come up with?
Hard to say. Route names usually come from inside jokes between the setters during the day—so picking a favorite is tough.
Q: After a long day of setting, what’s your go-to meal?
A nice steak.
Q: Any advice for future routesetters?
Be open to feedback. You’re not setting climbs for yourself—listen to others and value their opinions.
Q: Favorite tools for setting?
We mostly use impact drivers, but I love pulling out the angle grinder or hammer—that usually means there’s some sort of challenge to figure out.
Q: Any surprising facts about you?
I’m a Type 1 diabetic, so I keep candy in my setting kit in case my blood sugar drops.
Q: What’s your go-to setting music?
Minecraft music—seriously, it’s the best vibe for setting.
Q: Last one: favorite superhero?
Definitely not Spider-Man. He’d break my beta.
I hope you enjoyed the interview with Drew Short the director of setting at Inspire. I hope you learned a little bit about him and he’s one of the friendliest people I know so don’t be afraid to introduce yourself to him next time you see him and give any ideas of any routes you want to see!
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