Leavittation

Have you ever wondered how top US crack climbers climb these forever long splitters in Indian Creek? It all seems obvious when you jam your fingers, hands, fists. But what do you do when it becomes wider than that?

Learn the Leavittation technique to flawlessly glide through formations known as off-widths. Based on his own, now four year old journey, Dominik shows us a few milestones that are worth considering. These are designed to help you make and measure your progress.

The author was lucky enough to live near Czech sandstone, that is a paradise for off-width climbers. But it might be the case that in your local area there will not be an abundance of off-widths—especially the ones where it is crucial to use Leavittation. Fear not, as there is also a solution for that shown in the movie—a crack machine.

And for those romantic souls, that like tales about the old time, the history of this technique development is shared as well.

Acknowledgments:

Krzysztof Balon—for kindly submitting recording from your own crack and for numerous reviews

Paulina Matoga, Milan Karpf—for translation from czech

Pavel Lisák—for allowing me to use pictures from your book

Pamela Shanti Pack (https://pamelashantipack.com)—for valuable review

David Bobr Obročník (http://www.obrworks.cz)—for allowing me to use the recording from your workshop

Maria Orawczak, Agnieszka Lula, Alex Luk, Paweł Zieliński, Krystian Macieja—for being great actors

Dominik (Guest Writer)

About Dominik:

Dominik is an off-width enthusiast. His passion led him to creating a videoblog, where he updates his progress on a goal he has set for himself four years ago—climb all the off-widths in his local climbing area, ie. Rudawy Janowickie in Poland. He is also active in his local climbing community. Two years ago he actively participated in meetings of local climbers that resulted in standardizing the way routes are (not) bolted in southwestern Poland. He also regularly digs out and cleans old wide cracks, forgotten for the last forty years.

If you’d like, subscribe to his YouTube channel!

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