Chronic Pain in Climbing

Climbing is a rather physically demanding sport, and it should not be surprising that so many climbers face chronic pain of various kinds. Maybe it’s the finger tendons, maybe it’s the back, or an ankle, or your weathered knees. Most climbers have some bodily nemesis, but the severity of course varies from person to person, especially if that climber already has a chronic illness. So, what does this mean?

People with chronic pain face all kinds of challenges, including just day-to-day functioning. For those of us who are not pro climbers, it is hard to explain that we can’t work at our best when we’re in pain. There’s this guilt like somehow the pain is our fault, since we chose such a demanding sport, and we need to suffer the consequences alone. Of course, taking care of your body is important, but sometimes even the folks who do the most physical therapy are still in pain. Since it’s not a short term injury, but something you live with, the expectations are somehow higher since you have to “learn to live with it.” The thing is, you would never say that to someone who just broke their leg or tore their rotator cuff. So, while maybe you need to find strategies to manage your pain long term, it’s important to give yourself the same grace you would give someone else with a short term injury.

Some pain might improve if climbing were out of the equation; some might not. Either way, it’s still hard to get out there when you just hurt. Maybe the approach will get to you, or maybe it’s the crimps. Then you have to decide if you are willing to pay the price to do what you love. There’s no easy way to strike that balance, but for most, either extreme is unsustainable.

Now, what are some strategies to maximize this balance? How can we adjust our lifestyles to climb more and be in less pain?

• Be kind to yourself. I know the pain makes everything harder to deal with, but the more you get angry with yourself, the more pain you’ll feel.
• Work in physical therapy. Everyone is busy with work, school, family, etc., but whatever you can make time for (even if it’s just 5 minutes) will give you a nonzero benefit, even if it’s not a cure.
• Accept help. Whether it’s your doctor advising you to take certain medications, or your friend offering to drive, try to accept the help (responsibly). You don’t have take every opportunity, but sometimes you really need help with groceries, or you really need some trekking poles for an approach…and that’s okay. Fighting through it is only going to dig you deeper in the hole.
• Talk about it. No one wants to be around people that complain 24/7, but if we never admit that we’re suffering, we may never find the tools to make it better. Hopefully, if we start this conversation, we’ll be able to learn from each other and pick up tips & tricks. And maybe you and your buddies can get a massage together.

For those of you in pain right now, I am sorry you are suffering! I wish all of you the best and if you have any advice or coping strategies, please comment them!